Over the past thirty years of driving up to Whitehaven, I’ve often looked across the valley to Muncaster Castle on the hillside above the River Esk not far from Ravenglass. Last week, though, I had reason to stop there. On my way north in the morning, and looking for somewhere to spend the night before driving back south, I spotted a B&B sign outside the gate to the castle’s plant centre.

Muncaster Castle west front, c1955
Reproduced courtesy of Francis Frith.

Many of the commercial links on my “Around-England” sites are there because I earn commission from them. I never apologise for that as like everyone else I need an income. However, I’m happy also from time to time including links to businesses from which I receive no commission when I feel they deserve special recommendation. This is one of those times.

During a long career I’ve spent much of my time out and about around the UK and further afield, staying overnight in everything from country village pubs and b&b acommodation to five star hotels. Rarely, however, have I experienced B&B to the standard of Muncaster Castle “Coachman’s Quarters”. I was welcomed warmly by the ladies in the office, and having been shown around and booked my room I drove on to Egremont, Whitehaven and Workington before returning to Muncaster in the evening.

The room itself, with en suite shower room, was comfortable and scrupulously clean (and with a plentiful supply of tea and coffee – a key point with me). The substantial cooked, “full English”, breakfast with lots of options was just what I like when away from home. The accommodation can also be booked for self-catering, and there was a well-equipped kitchen and dining area just down the corridor from my room. I could have used if I’d wanted (and had the food with me). My preference though was to sit back with a book in the comfortable armchairs of the spacious lounge which, being a winter night with few people travelling in this area, I had entirely to myself.

The castle and gardens are not open to visitors at this time of year, so in the morning before heading south to my next appointment I did a small detour down to the coast to visit the famous Ravenglass and Eskdale narrow gauge railway. Sadly, being out of season there was not a puff of smoke or jet of steam to be seen but it was pleasant to cast my mind back to that first visit as a child almost sixty years ago and a later visit in my early twenties to introduce my fiance to this less well known part of the Lake District National Park.

Well that’s enough maudlin diversion; let’s get back to today! If you’re en route to the West Cumbrian coast or visiting the Western Lakes you’ll find it hard to get better b&b than the Coachman’s Quarters at Muncaster Castle.

In addition to the lakes themselves there is a wide variety of things to do in the Lake District. There are places to visit ranging from the literary connections of Dove Cottage at Grasmere (home of the poet William Wordsworth) to the practicalities (although also with artistic potential) of the pencil making museum in Keswick.

The National Trust has many properties in the region and if, either deliberately or due to hitting a bad patch of weather, you decide on a programme of indoor visits you could well benefit from joining the Trust rather than paying separately for each location. With your National Trust membership ticket you get free access to all its properties, which can be a considerable saving if you vist several – and remember, the membership lasts for a year so you’ll have access to properties in other parts of the country. If you live in England or Wales you may even be surprised at what’s available to visit almost on your own doorstep as well as in the Lake District.

The National Trust (which, incidentally, is not a government body; this is sometimes misunderstood because of its name) owns large areas of the countryside in the Lake District National Park. Apart from areas of water it owns many hill farms which are let out to tenant farmers who take good care of the landscape to protect it for future generations. It also owns houses and gardens of historic or other special interest. Here are just some of the National Trust properties you could visit while in Cumbria:

• Acorn Bank Garden and Watermill, Temple Sowerby, nr Penrith
• The Beatrix Potter Gallery, Hawkshead
• Sizergh Castle, nr Kendal
• Wordsworth House, Cockermouth (the poet’s birthplace)

Watch out for the next post if you’re visiting the UK from overseas. There’s a great deal to be had on entry to famous places all over Great Britain.

- David Murray -
England’s Lakes

The English Lake District is well-known for its water and its mountains, but maybe less known for its gardens. And yet this “most beautiful corner of England” contains some magnificent gardens of many different varieties.

I recently came across a book that I’d missed noticing when it was first published. (Obviously my eyesight must be going in addition to my hearing, as apparently it has been well displayed in bookshops – and not only in Cumbria).

Gardens of the Lake District, by Tim Longville, is published by Frances Lincoln, 2007 [ISBN: 0711227136] and is a book not to be missed by anyone with an interest in either Lakeland or gardens. It is superbly illustrated with pictures of some magnificent gardens, many of which are open for visiting by the general public.

Next time you’re planning a visit to the Lakes use this book to help choose which gardens to visit, and if you’re too far away to visit in body let the book transport you there in mind.

Clicking on the book image above will take you to Biblio, an international network of online book dealers. You’ll be able to check there what is available, both as new and used copies, in your part of the world and order on-line.

- David Murray -
England’s Lakes